Romantic Getaway in South Haven, MI

Falling leaves blew over the street and swirled around passing cars. Quiet walkers in fall colors strolled down the sidewalk with a burly dog as the sun faded behind Lake Michigan. South Haven, MI was an enchanting destination. Magnetized by the setting from a book, The Time Traveler’s Wife, my wife was imagining a memorable romantic weekend similar to the novel, but without time traveling.

We reserved a room at the Old Harbor Inn the night before and were pleasantly surprised when we arrived after dusk. The inn was small, old, and weathered with a boardwalk of creaky planks that lead to our room. It sat over the river inlet that connected to the lake offering views of the small river harbor, a bridge, and a park on a hill with large trees. Our room was simple and spacious. The bed and room furniture were clean, the TV and décor were dated, and there was a black iron balcony – it was a perfectly romantic hotel.

Escaping Detroit’s hustle and muscle is why almost everyone in Michigan has two houses. One close to the city for work, and the other “up north,” as they like to say, which really means: not in Detroit. Second homes are used mostly in the summer and less frequent in the fall and winter, known as the “off season” for these small towns. Which was good for us, rates are cheaper in the “off season” and the town and beach are less crowded.

Arriving in South Haven, which is west of Detroit, we realized why people had second homes here. The west coast of Michigan is lined with natural sandy beaches and spotted with old lighthouses that sit off river inlets hugged by small towns. Most of the lighthouses are inoperable but are kept up and maintained in remembrance of the Great Lakes maritime past. The lighthouse in South Haven was red and stood among the timeless lighthouses of the Great Lakes.

Day 1
Awaking the next morning to sea birds and a crisp lake breeze we jogged to the beach. Turning back through the neighborhoods bordering the beach we passed many of the bed and breakfasts we had seen online. Most were large homes with decks, ornate woodwork, available parking, and a few had libraries, and one even had a piano. The area was quiet and serene for a sunny autumn day, and we felt like we were apart of a favorite novel.

Throughout the afternoon together we explored the small beach town the best way we knew how – on foot. Everything we wanted to see was huddled around Phoenix St. which made it easy to ditch the car. The town was friendly and full of small boutiques, antique stores, coffee houses, unique chocolate shops, used bookstores, restaurants, and a surf-and-skate shop. The aura offered was small town comfort but with city appeal.

Talking to local store owners and passer-bys we received great tips for dining and finding those obscure gems only locals know about. One such gem was an Italian restaurant found in a rural neighborhood 10 minutes from town. We drove there that night through dark woods and a windy street, and found it just as described, “totally out of place.” The food was excellent and the service was good. We were beaming when we left. Another such gem was the Chocolate Café, where we had the best hot chocolate and chocolate covered strawberries we’d ever had. We still haven’t tasted better, and my wife is a true connoisseur.

Returning to the hotel we realized Old Harbor Inn had a Jacuzzi on the bottom floor. We grabbed our towels and sunk in for the evening, no one was there but us. The pool lights danced on the teak ceiling and through the large windows you could see the moon over the calm river inlet.

Day 2
Peering out from our balcony the next morning we decided to walk to the red lighthouse in the sunshine. The jetty leading to the lighthouse was long and wet from the big waves and strong wind. We had to walk in the middle of the jetty to be sure we wouldn’t get wet or be pushed off into the canal. Coming to the edge of the lighthouse we realized it was a lot bigger than we’d imagined, and the view over the lake was stunning. We held hands and looked out over the white-capped waves in awe. It wasn’t a salty merciless ocean, it wasn’t a calm mountain lake, it was a powerful Great Lake and beautiful.

We left South Haven that evening after visiting the Sunset Junque Shop, a carnival themed junk store 10 minutes north of town. It was straight from a Tom Waits video and stuff was cheap. We took a lot of goofy photos, I played my wife a song on an old white piano, and she danced. Upon leaving I asked the cashier if we could live there, my wife laughed and dragged me to the car.

Driving home in a light fog I asked my wife to retell the ending of the book The Time Traveler’s Wife. She recounted it slowly so it would last most of the two hour ride east towards Detroit. In the rearview mirror we left behind the swirling leaves, the sunset over Lake Michigan, and the enchantment of South Haven – the destination of our first romantic getaway.

Cross the Nation for Cheap

I've moved across this nation five times. Each time was an adventure and each time I learned how to do it for less. The following will outline how to cross the nation bare bones. It may not be comfortable or free-spirited but you will accomplish your feat and save money.

Know your traveling party. Become aware of everyone's limits and how far they can be pushed. Once this is accomplished you'll have a general idea of how cheap you can move. For conversation sake we're going to say there are few limitations. This basically leaves out hitch hiking, cannibalism and stealing. Everything else is fair game.

Get free moving boxes. Craigslist has free moving box postings. If you watch the listings you can get a load of moving boxes for free, but you have to be quick. There are others out there like you who know about this free outlet.

Bring a cooler of food. Go to the grocery store before you leave and buy off-brand food to eat on the road. This will limit the stops you have to make and the amount of fast food you’ll eat. When you run out of food, stop at the next grocery store and stock up again. It’s cheaper, better than fast food, and it’s easier to turn around in Kroger’s parking lot than Burger King’s.

Rent the cheapest moving van. Nice moving vans aren’t worth the cost. I’ve driven old and new vans and the ride varied little. When renting a moving van, reserve a smaller size than is recommended. Moving van companies assume you can’t pack a van, nonsense. Put all those hours of Tetris to use and pack it tight and to the top; heavy stuff on bottom, flimsy stuff on top, fragile stuff in the middle. With a smaller van you will save gas, it will be easier to maneuver, and the packing will be more secure.

Shop online for cheap drop offs. Don’t only compare moving van companies but compare pickup and drop off locations as well. You could get a cheaper rate if you’re not picky about where to pickup or return the moving van. Neighboring towns often need moving vans and offer a cheaper rate.

Don’t rent moving blankets or a moving cart. You have blankets, towels, pillows, sheets, drapes, and even placemats - put your own items to work. Moving carts are usually screwed to the inner wall of the moving van. If you’re old or weak you could use it, but put it back how you found it. They have no way of checking if it’s been used.

Extra insurance is a waste. The odds you’ll get in an accident or slim to none. If someone or something hits you the moving van company will pay for it. A pheasant flew into the windshield of a moving van I was driving, and the company paid for it without ever asking if I had bought the extra insurance. Extra insurance is a hoax. If you buy it you’re planning for an accident.

Tow your car. Rent a trailer and tow it. Don’t needlessly drive across the nation because you’re afraid of backing up. Backing up a trailer is simple physics. Turn the butt of the truck one way, the car goes the other. When you’re headed in the right direction follow the trailer back with the truck. Towing your car also gives you a mobile bedroom, or a place to carry your pets, plants, and luggage for the trip. Pets can’t ride in the back of the moving van because they’ll die from carbon monoxide poisoning.

Drive on the interstate. Use an atlas to navigate and stick to the major highways. They are faster, straighter, and have more gas stations, lodging options, and rest stops. They also provide a direct route to where you are headed.

Go the speed limit. Drive 65 on cruise control and your gas will last longer. Plus, there are many speed traps along the interstate you aren’t familiar with. Cops love to pullover innocent bystanders and punish them.

Draft. If you come up on a semi truck or other large truck going a similar speed, ride their bumper. You’ll be able to draft off them and save gas. Don’t worry, they can’t stop fast, and they do it to each other all the time.

Buy cheap gas. Gas in the big city is more expensive than in the country. Buy gas before you get to a big city and you’ll save some pennies. If you wait until after you’ve passed the city there may not be any gas stations close by.

Avoid toll roads. They aren’t faster or less congested. Stick to the interstate and you shouldn’t hit any tolls, unless you have to cross a bridge over a body of water.

Double up your stops. When you stop for gas try and accomplish as much as you can. Get dinner, walk the dog, use the bathroom, buy water, check the atlas, etc. That way you’re not making multiple stops wasting gas and time.

Pee in a cup. If you have to go and there is no other reason to stop, pee in a cup. If you’re driving make sure you’re ambidextrous and the road ahead is straight. Trying to pee in a cup around a corner is messy.

Stay with people. Bunk with people you know along the trip. This could be friends from college, long lost girlfriends or even that one guy that used to work for your dad. They should have a couch and shower you can borrow. Just make sure you identify these people early and contact them. If you don’t they may be on vacation or expecting an old debt to be paid when you arrive.

Sleep in your car. If you don’t know a lot of people, you’ll need to sleep in your car (mobile bedroom). If you sleep in your car do it at rest stops or close to a lake or river. That way you can use the bathroom when needed and bathe in nature's waters. Don’t bathe in salt water. It doesn’t clean well. If you want to camp, there are many campsites but they cost money and are far from major highways.

Don’t stay at hotels. If you have to stay at hotels because someone in your party is pregnant or a princess, price it out. Know what local chains will be off the interstate and pick the cheapest one. If it’s a well known chain they’ll have a name to defend so all amenities will be livable. Mom and Pop shops can be unpredictable, infested, or sets for the next horror movie. Also, don’t wait until midnight to stop and look for a hotel. Even hotels in Iowa fill up.

Shed access weight. If someone is mouthing off and isn’t pulling their weight in the traveling party, leave them at a truck stop. Less weight means more miles per gallon and truckers appreciate a little company on the road.

Stay sharp. If you drive tired or hungry accidents can happen. When you’re tired sing songs, call someone or eat, but don’t shut your eyes. If you’ve shut them once, it’s time to stop. Accidents are costly.

Listen to music, be gay, and enjoy the scenery. It’s free and it could be a long time before your next trek across the nation.

Moving or driving across the nation can really suck or be a lot of fun. It can also cost a lot or a little less. Stick to these moving tips and you should arrive at your destination on time, healthy, and with a little dough leftover. And that guy you left in Reno, he’ll forgive you if he ever makes it to your town.